It was a pleasant change to be leaving London mid-afternoon on Friday, before the rush hour got underway. Usually I find myself driving like a madman to get to our accommodation before they close, but this time I was very relaxed. Upon arrival at Pinecroft Lodges in Ingleton we collected the keys, got some advice about where to eat and unloaded our bags. The lodges were a good size, with a kitchen, lounge / dining room, bathroom and two bedrooms. One of the two sofas can be made into a double bed meaning each lodge can sleep six.
Once unloaded we headed to The Wheatsheaf in Ingleton, a very popular local pub, where this particular night the staff were all dressed in Victorian costumes. We ordered our meals and decided to eat in the restaurant which was far less crowded and smoky than the bar. The food was excellent, and after a couple of pints of the local ale we returned to the lodge for an early night.
Saturday morning we awoke before 8:00 in order to make it to the local shops for opening time at 8:30. With enough food for cooked breakfasts and packed lunches for two days we headed back for a fry-up. Alan took on chef duties, preparing a quality cooked breakfast, washed down with coffee and orange juice. Lunches packed and dressed for the first walk we left a little after 10:00, walking to the start in Ingleton town centre. The weather was overcast, a heavy mist obstructing what would have been some fine views. The path to the summit of Ingleborough was obvious and fairly steep, causing the heart to pump faster. Just before the summit a lace snapped on my right boot and of course I was not carrying a spare (something I won't forget to do in future). Not wanting to cut the walk short I made an emergency repair that I hoped would last until the end of the day. We met up with a few other walkers on the summit of Ingleborough who were all huddled behind the stone windbreak, before we took the obligatory photo and continuing with the walk.
Gary on summit of Ingleborough - Photo by Alan Staines
Navigation from the flat summit of Ingleborough can be tricky and with the low mist we were glad we had the entire route plugged into the GPS. We were making good progress despite much of the walk being on boggy moorland. By the middle of the afternoon we had made our way through Chapel-le-Dale and Ellerbeck. We met two serious local cavers on the way who took the opportunity to plug their caving DVD which was on sale in Bernie's café in Ingleton.
Again the navigation become more difficult towards Scales Moor before we arrived at Twistleton Scar End just as the light was beginning to fade. We were well and truly on the home stretch now with only the 'waterfalls walk' left to complete. This last section was well paved, originally for the benefit of the Victorians who visited here in large numbers. Some of these waterfalls are quite spectacular and it was quite odd to see them lit only by Petzl light. Finally we arrived back in Ingleton, just in time to visit an outdoor shop to buy some laces. We decided to stop at Bernie's café for a cup of tea and Alan decided to buy the caving DVD we had been told about earlier that day. Bernie's café is a great place, full of hardcore local cavers and walkers. I couldn't help but notice that they had photographs on the wall of trips to Everest base camp and evidence of a summit of Kilimanjaro. Before we got too comfy and warm we decided it was time to walk back to the lodge in order to freshen up and change before our evening meal.
We decided to dine at the Wheatsheaf again, and as the night before the food was first rate both in terms of quality and the size of the portions. A couple of drinks later we returned to the lodge for an early night, promising that we would start the walk Sunday earlier than we had Saturday.
It was uplifting to peer out of the window early on Sunday morning and see blue skies. Alan got busy in the kitchen, another cracking cooked breakfast the result. By 9:00am the car was loaded, the keys returned and we began the drive to Hardraw, the start of our Sunday walk. We parked outside the Green Dragon pub which was still closed at this time of the morning. Walking west, we crossed a river and found ourselves on the Pennine Way heading to the first summit of the day, Great Shunner Fell. Once at the summit we met a couple of guys who had begun the Pennine Way 8 days earlier from Edale in the Peak District.

Alan on Great Shunner Fell - Photo by Gary Box
We then headed across difficult moorland bound for the second summit of the day, Lovely Seat. The next point of interest was Butter Tubs Pass, a road that joins Swaledale and Wensleydale. The name Butter Tubs refers to deep potholes where farmers are said to have lowered buckets of butter in order to keep it fresh for market day.
The deep potholes of Butter Tubs - Photo by Gary Box
A steep climb to the summit of Lovely Seat followed, the pace slowed with the gradient and the deteriorating weather. Finally the summit came into view and I headed straight for it, eager to eat something and rest for five minutes.

Gary having a bad hair day on Lovely Seat - Photo by Alan Staines
Eager to keep to our schedule we did not linger on Lovely Seat, heading south-westerly across more moorland. Every now and then a beacon indicated we were heading in the right direction before we finally rejoined the Butter Tubs Pass, much closer to Hawdraw. A welcome downhill section followed before we left the road, joining a footpath that took us back to Hawdraw.
Once back at the car we removed our rucksacks and headed into the Green Dragon pub. We had planned to get a quick drink but the service was shockingly bad so we just paid our £2.00 in order to walk through the pub to Hawdraw Force. Hawdraw Force is England's highest unbroken waterfall and I'd imagine the pub makes a tidy sum charging people to get access to it.

Alan at Hawdraw Force - Photo by Gary Box
Another great weekend had come to an end as we faced the long drive home. Stops for something to eat and the neccessary caffeine breaks were mixed with chat about future trips. Finally we were home, limbs a little sore but eager to get away again soon.
Article submitted by Gary Box
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