Our grand plan for Tenerife was to summit Mt Teide, at a respectable 3 715 metres
high (12 198 feet) and do a bit of sightseeing in the main city. Tenerife is the
largest of the Canary Islands, off Morocco’s west coast, and officially part of
Spain.
We arrived on Tenerife at 7pm on Monday and headed by rental car to the Parador,
our hotel for two of the three nights. The Parador is a state run hotel and the
only accommodation in the national park. It's at 2 100 meters in elevation which
would help us get acclimatised to the altitude before our climb up Mt. Teide.
On Tuesday we woke up early, had breakfast and checked out of the Parador. Before
we could get going on the hike, we needed to buy some gas canisters for our camp
stoves. Unfortunately, none of us knew the Spanish translation for "camping gas"
nor did we know what the sign for an outdoors store would look like. Our search
took us through three villages encountering numerous blank stares in response to
the phrase "camping gas por favor". We would get directed to stores down the street
who would then direct us to the store had just come from. Eventually (2.5 hours
later) we found a large hardware store that did have the correct canisters. Once
we were fully kitted out it was time to get back to the mountain and get cracking.
Unfortunately we got lost.
You would think that it would be simple, just head for the highest point on the
island. Nope. The streets aren't terribly well signed, there was a ton of road works
and mostly one way streets. Eventually every street seemed to be going downhill
– definitely the wrong way. We eventually came to a well marked street that was
going in the right direction (uphill) so we took it.
We got to the base of Teide and began the ascent around 2pm. There was a French
camera crew at the bottom of the hill interviewing hikers about mountain safety
asking intelligent questions such as "What if one of you has a heart attack?" We're
all in our 30's and very experienced hikers so a heart attack was unlikely but their
camera man sounded as if he was going to have one since he would run ahead to get
shots of us walking and after we'd pass by he'd run by again to get some more. We
left them in our dust (literally, it was really dry) and continued on our way.
The first four of kilometres follow a gravel road and were fairly easy. At about
the three kilometre mark we encountered the first of the Teide Eggs. During a volcanic
eruption when the magma is flowing down the hill the top layer cools a bit and hardens.
Because the hill is pretty steep and the magma has a bit if momentum, some of the
harder stuff starts to roll downhill. As it rolls, it picks up more magma similar
to rolling a snowman. Some of the eggs are over 15 feet tall and rolled farther
than the magma flows. This results in these massive black rocks resting on light
sand.
At about 2 950 metres (in elevation) the road ended and the trail became a lot steeper.
This is about the same point that we really started to notice the lack of oxygen.
The trail was a series of switchbacks and we gained elevation quickly but we were
all breathing heavily and had to take lots of rest breaks. After a couple hours
we finally reached the Refugio where we would spend the night. We knew that the
Refugio would be closed at this time of the year but there was supposed to be an
annex that had beds for eight people. The Refugio was undergoing renovations and
they were using the annex for storage for their building supplies. Fortunately they
had left one of the storage rooms unlocked so we rearranged some of the bags of
cement and swept the floor. Because I thought there would be beds, I hadn't brought
an air mattress so it was a very rough sleep that night. The forecast was for minus
9 degrees that night but I had brought 2 sleeping bags so I was nice and warm. We
went to bed at 8.30pm but it was pretty uncomfortable so we didn't sleep much that
night.
Chris on Mt. Teide - Photo by Gary Box
We got up at 5.30am in order to watch the sun come up at the summit. In reality,
we had been awake for some time but just didn't get out of our sleeping bags. It
took a bit longer to get to the summit than we expected but it was still a pretty
spectacular sunrise. We made the summit around 8.30am, puttered around for a while
looking at the steam vents (third highest volcano in the world) and admiring the
view.
The descent was far faster than the ascent. On the way back to the Refugio we stopped
to check out the ice cave. It was a pretty large cave but there wasn't any ice to
be found. Back at the Refugio, we ate most of the food we had left (better to eat
it than carry it), made our way back to the car and checked back in at the Parador.
After a well deserved nap and shower we headed into Playa des Americas for some
dinner. Playa des Americas is the main tourist town on Tenerife and is full of crispy
Brits. There were plenty of English-style pubs and restaurants but we settled on
an Italian restaurant on the oceanfront. After dinner and a brief wander around
town we headed back to the Parador for a round of beers and to plan our last day
on the island.
For our last day, we started out in Candelera to check out some statues of the original
inhabitants (Guanche) of the island. While there we checked out the local cathedral
where they forced the Guanche to convert to Catholicism. It wasn't much different
than most churches.
Next up was to visit Santa Cruz to check out the military museum. It's mostly dedicated
to the only defeat of the British Admiral Nelson. They had a large model that showed
the island's defenses and had a narrative of how the battle progressed. They also
had the canon that was responsible for injuring Nelson (it required amputating his
arm at the elbow).
Last up was to view Los Gigantes (The Giants - no need to bust out the Spanish/English
dictionary on that one) which are 600-metre high cliffs rising out of the ocean.
These were on the opposite side of the island so we drove down the north side of
the island, which we hadn't yet seen. The north side is much greener than the south
side as it gets way more rain (and is why most of the resorts are on the south side).
There lots of banana plantations lining the highway and plenty of villages built
onto the cliff face. Before we knew it, we were clear across the island and took
the scenic route to Los Gigantes. The road was an engineering marvel. It travelled
from sea level to well over 1 500 meters in less than 10 kilometres. It was practically
a single lane, with numerous pullouts where you could let oncoming traffic pass.
When we finally reached Los Gigantes, we had our last authentic Spanish meal: pizza.
Just kidding, it was actually called Paella Valencia which is rice, chicken, red
pepper and green beans. It was pretty tasty even with the green beans. After that,
it was back to the airport for the flight home.
Article submitted by Chris Tillapaugh
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